Volvo penta MD22 complete overhaul
As there was little time we decided to overhaul the engine ourselves.
After googling some information about the engine I came to realise this is about the worst engine ever built in history by perkins.
But the problem we encountered was yet not documented on the Internet.
The problem with the engine was water on the head of the engine, so at first we expected the head gasket to be the culprit.
We started by removing the head of the engine to look at the extend of the damage.
All valves were luckily undamaged but as this is a complete overhaul we adjusted the tolerances aswell.
Next to be removed was the oil and the carter.
The engine can be handled best when it is rolled on its back.
The carter can be removed quite easy then.
Motor head has been removed to realign the valves
The carter has been removed so we can extract the cylinders
You can see a little bit of rust already on the cylinders because the came in contact with water.
This shows the motor with its pistons
You can see the carter also contained water because of the rust.
This rust needed to be removed.
It is easy to spot the carter contained water because of the rust
Another problem: the starter engine broke because there was water on the engine head.
When starting there was so much torque, the aluminium broke.
I rejoined the broken pieces together and welded it back to one piece.
The startmotor broke, so this had to be repaired
You can see the weld clearly here.
And now with the complete engine restored.
And once again it is a working part
After failing to find leaks in the head gasket we investigated further, next suspect was the heat exchanger.
Somehow this part leaked all its contents in the exhaust so we had to investigate what exactly failed.
This is why I took my axial grinder to open up the top of the heat exchanger.
(NOTE volvo penta thinks this part is worth 3250 euro's ex V.A.T. I personally think they are totally crazy to charge such amount for a piece is (badly designed) aluminium)
Now removing the labels of the culprit
Now grinding the top of the exchanger.
Grinding the top open for inspection
The inner cooling system is clearly visible now, the water is contained above the exhaust and intake tubes.
damn, no cracks to see in here!
After pouring some water in the exchanger the exact problem came to light.
You can clearly see the aluminium corroded ( you would expect a sea worthy engine to outlive more then 15 years) but because this part is so badly designed salt water can sit between the gasket and the heat exchanger.
and corrode the aluminium.
(I Really don't know why any sane person would design anything like this (any other then reducing the life expectancy of an engine!))
Ahhhh found it... after cleaning the exhaust I spotted a small hole
I tried to restore the aluminium with my tig welder but the aluminium is so polluted by corrosion I was unable to establish a good weld.
after some cleaning it became apparent the aluminium was to contaminated to weld properly
Next thing I did was just grinding off the flange to look at the extend of the corrosion, as you can see we now have clear shiny aluminium.
This is the sawed of flange, as you can see it has holes where the leakage originated, this is aluminium which is designed in such a way this reduced the life expectancy of the engine.
Again this is to my knowledge completely unnecessary and only introduced by designers to have you buy parts when the aluminium is gone due to corrosion (extremely expensive parts 3250 euro's ex V.A.T.)
It is easy to see WHY the part failed, an enormous design flaw!
Next step , I started to recreate the flange.
I sawed off a piece of aluminium (costs about 3 euro)
this piece will replace the old flange
Now milling a hole for the exhaust.
now drilling a hole for the exhaust
Drilling a few holes for the mounting threads.
And welding the part to the exhaust. ( total costs: 30 euro)
And now it welds like a champ!
The completed weld.
I a few minutes I am all done welding
Now the top has to be reinstated.
Now the top has to be reattached, I am using exhaust putty for the inner chambers
And I wanted to test my welds so I plugged up all holes.
All done, now we have to test it for leaks
I filled the heat exchanger with water.
Then compressing the exchanger to about 2.5 Bar pressure and letting it stay on pressure for a while.
The heat exchanger is filled with water and now pressurizing it up to 3 bar
A nice view of the fixed part.
The pistons needed new compression rings because of the water, we first removed all rings and ordered new ones.
the Pistons are stripped from their compression rings
Then we started polishing with waterproof sanding paper.
The pistons are now cleaned with p1000 sanding paper
The difference between an polished and unpolished part is easy to spot :D
The difference is easy to spot
The Cylinders needed some service too, so we honed the buses till it was nice any flat once again.
Honing the cylinders till they are smooth again
after most imported parts were repaired we started painting the engine.
Now a new paint job is nice also
And all small parts :D
We reinstalled all pistons
Pistons are once again back in place
The pistons feel right at home.
We closed the carter with some special carter seal which can endure high temperatures and oil.
We lost the gasket fixator so I recreated a new one.
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The head has been fixed but we lost the gasket fixators, so we created new ones
Now the head is once again installed on the engine.
And the heat exchanger is bolted to its place.
The air intake is installed
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all parts which don't need painting are taped
All zero positions have been set so the timing belt can be installed at a later point.
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now fixating the valves for the belt installation
The oil pump needed a new gasket so we cut one.
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a new gasket for the oil pump was needed
All pieces which don't need a new coat of paint are taped.
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once again it looks like an engine
Final screws are inserted
And now the final coat of paint is applied.
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And now its paintjob, it looks like new
Looks like a new engine :D
and sure we broke a piece of the fuel return line, this is brass so I didn't feel like welding it.
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we broke the fuel return line, this was fixed by recreating the part
So I created a small replacement part and installed it on the fuel return line . :D problem solved:D
I also broke the pulley of the water maker, but luckily only one belt was needed so I removed one pulley ring.
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I broke the belt drive, luckely only 1 belt was needed so I removed the excess metal
And once again the motor is back in its place , ready to run once again! :D
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Once again an installed motor!







